Khumbu Himal in the Everest Area
is the most popular trekking peak in Nepal. From Dingboche
the mountain is seen as an island in a sea of ice. The
summit is interesting and attractive with a highly glaciated
west face rising from the Lhotse Glacier.The mountain
itself is the extension of the South Ridge of Lhotse
Shar seperated by a small col. The ridge rising to the
south from this point leads to the summit of Island
Peak. The extension of this ridge descending south-west
is the part of the normal route of ascent and leads
to the South Summit. Imja Tse not only provides an enjoyable
climb but also provides some of the most spectacular
scenery of Himalayas in the Khumbu region. Seen from
the summit the giant mountains, Nuptse (7,879m), Lhotse
(8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m) and Lhotse Shar
(8,383m) make a semi circle in the north. The views
of Makalu (8475m) in the east, Baruntse and Amadablam
in the south add more charm for climbing Island Peak.
East Flank & South-West Ridge
Normally, the base camp is set at Pareshaya Gyab (5,087m),
between Imja Tse and
the lateral moraine of the Imja Glacier. It should not
be forgotten that the place is more likely for avalanche
in the event of heavy snow fall. From the base camp,
a well acclimatized party in good conditions can make
the summit and return to the base camp in a day. However,
most of the climbers prefer establisheing a High-Camp
which helps a safe ascent. From the base camp the route
skirts south east around and base of Imja Tse and climbs
steep grassy slopes and small rocky steps. We scramble
up on open gully which leads between two ridges to the
site of high camp on the left-hand ridge below and to
the right of a small hanging glacier (5,280m). From
the high camp, the left hand ridge scramble across the
broad open gully. After crossing a gully a steep snow
and ice ramp leads upward for nearly 100 meters to the
summit ridge. Climbing near the summit is a little difficult
due to steep climbing. In recent times the snow slopes
below the summit has developed some large crevasses
making the final ascent to the top difficult.
First ascent was in 1958 by Alf Gregory, Dick Cook and
two Sherpas. North of the main summit the ridge continues
to a col (5,700m). The route climbs the ridge from the
col, which is reached by following the true right bank
of the Imja Glacier and later the moraines on the right
bank of the Lhotse Sar Glacier, before climbing north-west
over snowy slopes to the col. On the first ascent, a
camp was placed on the col. From the col, follow the
ridge which is a magnificient snow arete, due south.
This steepens for the final summit pyramid. This a long
ridge that would be difficult under soft snow conditions
and may under other contiditions have a marked cornice.
The climb is a little more difficult than the normal
route, and is graded alpine PD+.
Days 01-02: Fly
Kathmandu to Lukla. Trek to Namche.
Day 03: Acclimatization day at Namche.
Days 04-05: Trek Namche-Thyangboche-Pheriche.
Day 06: Acclimatization day at Pheriche.
Days 07-09: Trek Lobuche-Kalapattar-Everest Base Camp.
Days 10-11: Trek to Chukung-Island Peak base camp.
Days 12-14: Climb Island Peak.
Days 15-19: Return trek to Lukla.
Day 20: Fly Lukla to Kathmandu.
This peak can be combined
with others like Phokalde, Island Peak, or Lobuche East.
The trekking route can include crossing the Chola pass
into the Gokyo valley.
Join a climbing trek to Island Peak ]
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